After establishing the magnificent outer vestments of the High Priest, attention turns inward to the foundational, simpler garments worn directly against the body: the tunic, the turban, and the sash [קאסוטו, שטיינזלץ]. The tunic was a full-length garment with sleeves, worn directly on the skin and made entirely of fine linen woven from six-ply threads [רלב"ג]. The primary approach among commentators is that this linen was woven into a checkered pattern, much like a modern tablecloth [רש"י, מלבי"ם, ביאור יש"ר, קאסוטו]. This distinct checkered design was crafted specifically to honor Aaron, setting his tunic apart from the smooth, plain tunics worn by ordinary priests [אבן עזרא]. One tradition suggests the pattern resembled a square within a circle, similar to the imprint on a coin, while [בכור שור] interprets the craftsmanship as the creation of beautiful, decorative linen fringes along the edges. Regardless of the exact design, it was made exclusively of linen, completely devoid of any gold threads [אבן עזרא הקצר].
The second item is the head covering, which, unlike the tunic, featured no checkered pattern [רלב"ג]. Rather than a pre-sewn hat, it consisted of a remarkably long sheet of linen. The priest would repeatedly wrap and coil this fabric around his head to form a tall, majestic turban [רלב"ג, שטיינזלץ, קאסוטו]. To secure the tunic to the body, a sash was tied over it. Measuring thirty-two cubits in length—between fifteen and nineteen meters—it had to be wrapped around the priest's torso many times [שטיינזלץ]. Although practically the priest would tie the sash before wrapping the turban, the instructions prioritize the creation of the headpiece before the belt [העמק דבר]. In stark contrast to the pure linen of the tunic and turban, the sash was woven with a mixture of linen and wool threads dyed blue, purple, and crimson. Because this specific combination of wool and linen is generally forbidden, the priest was only permitted to wear it while actively performing the Temple service [רלב"ג, אבן עזרא הקצר]. This sash featured intricate embroidery, a craft that evolved significantly over time. In antiquity, shapes were created on a separate piece of fabric and then sewn onto the main garment as a patch. Eventually, artisans developed the technique of using a needle to embroider shapes directly onto the clothing, before finally learning to integrate these complex patterns directly into the weaving process itself [שד"ל].
Beyond their physical function, these garments carried a profound spiritual purpose, serving to atone for the sins of the people [כלי יקר, אלשיך]. The tunic, sitting directly against the flesh, atones for the sin of bloodshed. This evokes the memory of Joseph’s striped tunic that was dipped in blood, as well as Cain, the first murderer, whose rejected offering was made of flax. The turban, placed high upon the head like a crown, brings atonement for arrogance and haughtiness of spirit. Finally, the sash, wrapped tightly around the area of the heart, atones for sinful thoughts. The heart is viewed as the organ that embroiders thoughts; when a person harbors a good thought, God combines it into action, mirroring the embroidered work of the sash [אלשיך].
The atoning power of the priestly garments was so widely recognized throughout the ancient world that King Ahasuerus of Persia attempted to exploit it during his infamous royal feast [כלי יקר]. Terrified of divine retribution for his extravagant banquet, and well aware of the bitter fate that befell his predecessor Belshazzar for desecrating the Temple vessels, Ahasuerus draped himself in the vestments of the High Priest. He sought to mimic the Temple service, even calling his ministers by names that alluded to sacrifices, believing that merely wearing the holy garments would grant him absolution. However, the ministering angels prosecuted him before God, pointing out that his actions were a hollow, external imitation, completely devoid of genuine offerings or true devotion to God.